You may not have heard of Gotokuji, a neighborhood in the west of Tokyo. However, I am pretty sure you have seen this lucky cat, the “Maneki Neko”. The Temple here at Gotokuji is home to this famous cat, for bringing fortune and luck to its owner. A cat-lovers dream.
It is a small neighborhood in Setagaya, laid-back, local, and far from the city lights of Tokyo. Yet only about 30min from Shinjuku on the train. It is a nice little getaway, especially if you love cats…
Find Your Luck at Gotokuji Temple
Let’s start with the main attraction, cause who am I kidding, this is what we are here for!
Arriving at the station you will already be greeted by one of these lucky cats and a leisurely 10-15min walk later you will be facing this beautiful temple, with its immaculately trimmed gardens, main hall, and wooden pagoda.To be honest this Gotokuji Temple is already worth visiting for this alone. However, the moment you see the cats, all of it becomes background purr.
Gotokuji Temple
This temple, even without its feline inhabitants is worth a visit, peaceful and calm it is a place to rest an take a breath. Perfect to relax and get away from the hustle and bustle of Tokyo. Come in autumn and see the temple’s trees all turn beautifully red and orange.
Walking through the front gate you will first see a beautiful black lion statue and only at second glance realize this is actually an incense burner.
As you move on you are passing the majestic wooden pagoda on your left. To shortly after discovering the temples “Ema” plaques, the small wooden plaques to write your wishes and prayers on. And of course, these too feature our cat friend, along with the current year zodiac animal. Funnily enough which is the mouse/rat this year…
And just as you may get excited by these you will already be able to see a glimpse of what we came here for in the back. Like a sea of white cats, shelves over shelves…
It’s hard not to get excited and yes you will take too many pictures here. But how could you not? With every angle giving you another photo opportunity and with cats as small as your thumbnail or as big as a real ones it is impossible to resist.
And if you like, just around the corner you find the temple shop, so why not add your own? Starting from as little as ¥300 for a tiny one (which is absolutely adorable and will also make a great gift or souvenir). Or if you want to go all out and spend ¥5,000 for a life-size one. Good to know, the size does not matter here and your lucky cat will look after you no matter how big or small it is.
The idea is, you make a wish and either leave your cat there or you take it home and bring it back once your wish has come true. However, many of these lucky cats make their permanent home abroad and I have a feeling that is just as ok.
The Lucky Cat – A Story
If you are visiting the temple shop, you will be given the story of the Lucky Cat. They have an English leaflet so don’t worry.
As the legend goes, along time ago, this temple was looked after by a monk and his cat. In a particularly bad year the monk asked that the cat please bring good fortune. One day there was a big storm and five samurai were caught in it, as they saw the temple the cat waved them to come and stay and take shelter. As it turned out, one of them was the feudal lord of Hikone. And he was so grateful he donated rice fields as well as the grounds. Making Gotokuji into the temple of his family.
And this is how the story goes. After his lucky cat passed away, the monk put a cat statue on its grave and it became what we now know as the “Maneki Neko”, a symbol for luck and good fortune…
Gotokuji – Best Places to Eat
Now that you have fulfilled your cat-related needs, it is time to see what culinary delights this small neighborhood has to offer. With many small mum and pop shops, stalls and cafes you will not leave hungry, wait, unless it is a Monday…
Because as I sadly discovered, many places are shut on Mondays. Also, if you arrive before 11 am many things will still be closed. So make sure you had your coffee before and explore what Gotokuji has to offer after you visited the lucky cats. Let me share some of my favorite places to stop here.
Eat Sweet Potato from Around Japan at Fuji
Fuji is all about the humble sweet potato. Offering seasonal and often rare varieties from all over Japan, this is a great treat. The highlight and must-eat is the purple one from Miyazaki, but it is only available in autumn and winter. The rest of the year, the shop owner told me, they only sell 1 or 2 local varieties.
Contempory Japanese Sweets at Mahorodou Sougetsu
Between the Station and Gotokuji Temple, you will find these Japanese sweets shop. Come here to try some of their seasonal Japanese sweets with a nice cup of green tea for the full traditional experience. And the best part, you can also buy their sweets to take home. Look out for the “Maneki Neko dorayaki” the purr-fect treat to share with friends.
Get Your Coffee Fix at Iron Coffee
This small standing coffee bar offers what might be the best coffee in the area. And as my secret tip, if you do want to sit down, just about 30m down the road is a small covered waiting area, including tables and all.
Pastries Galore at Uneclef
If you do like your danish and pastries than this is another place you don’t want to miss out on. Great to grab a quick breakfast or reenergise after walking around. It is located behind the station, in the opposite direction of the cat temple, which is why many people don’t see it. Making it the perfect stop on the way back.
Some Last Facts
How to get here?
Take the Odakyu Line from Shinjuku, it is about a 30min ride.
How much time to spend?
You can just do a quick 1h visit, however I would suggest spending at least 2h in the area. Half a day is probably the best amount of time, especially if you try some of the food or get a coffee.
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